Mock French Seam – Best Way to Sew it

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The mock French seam, sometimes known as the false or fake French seam, is a simple version of the real thing. It is easier to finish and gives the same effect, but without the hazardous trimming and turning of the normal French seam.

PinMock French Seam


Mock French SeamMock French Seam vs French SeamHow to Do a Mock French SeamStep 1 – PreparationStep 2 – StitchStep 3 – PressStep 4 – FoldStep 5 – Stitch Mock French Seams – In Conclusion

Mock French Seam

The big difference to factor in with the mock French seam is this seam starts with the right sides together. It is definitely easier to follow the steps of this neat little seam. When it is completed, the end result is very close to the real French seam. The mock French seam looks exactly like a French seam on the inside of your garment. 

Mock French Seam vs French Seam

One of the easy advantages of this little seam is the fact that it can be used to sew seams on curves. That is a good quality because sewing a regular French seam on curved seams is not always that easy.

Types of SeamsTypes of SeamsPin

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How to Do a Mock French Seam

Here are the steps to take to complete a mock French seam.

Step 1 – Preparation

Cut and prepare your seam for sewing. Mark your seam allowance. Unlike a regular French seam, you do not need to adjust the seam allowance. A mock seam is best for seam allowances of ½ to ⅝ inch (1.2-1.5cm).

Step 2 – Stitch

Place your fabric right sides together and stitch along your seam line. (Remember this is the opposite to a regular French seam.)

 Mock French Seam - Stitch the Seam Mock French Seam - Stitch the SeamPin Mock French Seam – Stitch the Seam

Step 3 – Press

Press the seam open along the seam stitching line.

Press OpenPress OpenPinPress Open

Step 4 – Fold

Fold the raw edges on each side of the seam into the middle to meet at the stitching line. Press the edges of the folded seam. Now you have a stitched seam and two raw edges folded inwards.

Press the EdgesPress the EdgesPinPress the Edges

Step 5 – Stitch

Fold the seam closed with the two folded edges meeting. The raw edges are enclosed inside the original seam. You do not need to trim. Stitch the seam along the folded edge to enclose the raw edges.

Mock French SeamMock French SeamPinMock French Seam

Press once completed and voila it is a mock French seam. Remember in your calculations the enclosed seam amount will be half of the seam allowance because you will be folding the edges in and pressing and stitching them to enclose the raw edges. 

The right side of the seam and the right side of the garment will not show any stitching. The wrong side of the fabric will show two rows of stitching. The first is the seam stitching line and the second line of stitching is the folded edge enclosing the raw edges. The seam will look and feel like a French seam. It will be neatly placed on the wrong side of the fabric, but the nerve-wracking trimming process is not necessary. The finished seam is still neat and professional.

Mock French SeamMock French SeamPin Mock French Seam

Mock French Seams – In Conclusion

One of the disadvantages of this seam is the extra line of stitching on the inside that may make the seam feel rough on the skin. The regular French seam with the trim and turn concept does not have the extra line of stitching to enclose the seam. This may make a seam that is close to the sensitive parts of the body in lingerie or nightgowns feel rough. If you asked the French for an opinion on a false French seam for their very beautiful negligee you are sure to get an emphatic answer. Non, absolument pas – No, absolutely not!

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